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Portugal’s once-sleepy capital has awakened, and it now attracts lovers of food, music, and design in throngs. Since 2001 nearly one-third of Lisbon’s abandoned buildings have been renovated on the government’s dime, and the work continues. Cafés, restaurants, and boutiques from independent fashion designers are popping up on every corner of the adjoining Bairro Alto and Chiado neighborhoods. In a place this hip, even the Prime Minister,
José Sócrates, wears Prada.

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