Dream Trips | 2008
A Drive Through Andalusia
Southern Spain has many brilliant colors: a flash of red on a whirling flamenco dancer; the peachy pinks of tropical flowers on the walls of an Arabic-style courtyard. There's no more romantic way to see Andalusia than from behind the wheel of a car, discovering the secret gardens and hidden white villages as you go. Start in the cobblestoned streets of Córdoba, site of the renowned eighth-century Mezquita mosque. Then drive southwest to Seville, and see the labyrinthine 14th-century Alcázar palace, near some of the city's liveliest flamenco bars. East of here are two Andalusian white villages: Antequera lies behind the granite peak La Peña de los Enamorados, or "Lovers' Rock," named for a centuries-old tale of a star-crossed Christian Romeo and Muslim Juliet. And Iznájar has a 1,200-year-old ruined castle that's perfect for exploring. End the trip to the east, in Granada. Outside Iznájar, two Belgian expats recently opened Casa Rural El Olivar (6 Cierzos y Cabreras; 34/95-753-4928; casaruralelolivar.com; doubles from $126). The five-room bed-and-breakfast is surrounded by acres of olive groves. Hospes Las Casas del Rey de Baeza (2 Plaza Jesús de la Redención; 34/95-456-1496; hospes.es; doubles from $312), in Seville, is a 41-room, 18th-century manor furnished with colonial-style beds. Traditional dishes like serrano suckling pig and sautéed garbanzo beans are specialties at Taberna Salinas (3 Tundidores; 34/95-748-0135; dinner for two $46), in Córdoba. La Finca (Carr. Salinas; 34/95-832-1861; dinner for two $180), at the Barceló Hotel La Bobadilla, is the place to go in the Salinas area for paella. Granadan newcomer Azafrán (1 Paseo de los Tristes; 34/95-822-6882; dinner for two $55) incorporates Moroccan spices like coriander and cumin in its grilled bacalao. Book a table near the windows for a view of the Alhambra walls. On Thursday evenings, Fundación el Monte (4 Laraño, Tercera Planta; 34/95-450-8200; tickets for two $30), in Seville, presents the rising stars of flamenco singing of love lost and found. In Granada, stop for tea at the Moroccan teahouse Alfaguara (7 Calderería Nueva; 34/95-822-5913), in the ancient Moorish neighborhood of Albaicín. —Sarah WildmanDriving Itinerary
Where to Stay
Where to Eat
Insider Tips



